The Effects of Finger Extensor Training on Climbing Performance Compared With Traditional Flexor Training

Part of paid clinical trials in Portland, Oregon.

Sponsor
April Henderson
Study ID
NCT07414862
Status
Active Not Recruiting

Conditions

  • Healthy Adult

Eligibility Criteria

Sex
ALL
Age
18 Years - N/A
Healthy Volunteers
Accepted

Interventions

  • Traditional Hangboard Protocol — OTHER
    A structured finger flexor strength training protocol performed on a climbing hangboard at 70% of maximal finger flexion strength. Training consists of 5 seconds of isometric loading followed by 5 seconds of rest for 6 repetitions per set, across 6 sets with 3 minutes rest between sets. Training is performed twice weekly for six weeks following a standardized upper extremity warm-up.
  • Extensor Tendon Isometric Training — OTHER
    A structured finger extensor tendon training protocol performed at 70% of maximal finger extension strength using isometric loading. This intervention will be in addition to performing the Finger Flexor Protocol. Training consists of 30-second isometric contractions with 3 minutes of rest between sets for a total of 6 sets per hand. Training is performed twice weekly for six weeks and is completed during rest periods of the finger flexor training protocol

Study Details

The purpose of this study, is to assess climbing performance metrics that include max strength testing on a rock climbing hangboard, maximum grip strength, assessment of pain and function using the DASH (disability of the arm, shoulder and hand), and maximum flexor strength and maximum extensor strength in climbers who perform a traditional finger training protocol compared to climbers who train both traditional flexor training protocol and extensor tendons.

Key Dates

Start date
Nov 11, 2025
Status verified
Jun 2026
Primary completion
Aug 4, 2026
Completion
Aug 6, 2026

Study Design

Enrollment
36 participants (estimated)
Allocation
RANDOMIZED
Intervention model
PARALLEL
Primary purpose
OTHER

Arms

  • Experimental: Maximum Flexor Strength (MFS)
    Participants assigned to the Maximum Flexor Strength (MFS) group will perform a traditional finger flexor hangboard training protocol twice weekly for six weeks. Training is performed at 70% of maximal finger flexion strength using a standardized work-to-rest ratio. Participants will complete pre-, mid-, and post-intervention testing of grip strength, finger flexion strength, finger extension strength, finger endurance, and self-reported upper extremity function
  • Experimental: Maximum Extensor Strength (MES)
    Participants assigned to the Maximum Extensor Strength (MES) group will perform a traditional finger flexor hangboard training protocol combined with a structured finger extensor training protocol twice weekly for six weeks. Extensor training is performed at 70% of maximal finger extension strength using isometric loading, and will . Participants will complete pre-, mid-, and post-intervention testing of grip strength, finger flexion strength, finger extension strength, finger endurance, and self-reported upper extremity function.
  • No Intervention: Control
    Participants assigned to the control group will continue their usual climbing activities without participation in a structured finger training intervention. Participants will complete pre-, mid-, and post-testing identical to the intervention groups.

Primary Outcome Measure

Maximal Finger Extension Strength (MES) [ Time Frame: Baseline (pre-training), 3 weeks, and 7 weeks (post-training) ]

Locations (1)

FacilityCityStateZIPSite coordinators
MazamasPortlandOregon97215-

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By research site
Mazamas· Portland, OR

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